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Steve MacCausland stokes the evaporator in the sugarhouse in Fairfield, Vt. After being filtered to remove some of the water, the sap is boiled to get rid of most of the remaining liquid.

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Terroir movement arrives at maple syrup's door

BURLINGTON, Vt. — The next time you take a bite of syrup-soaked pancake, ask yourself: What does that maple syrup really taste like? Do you detect a hint of spiced meat? Perhaps a whisper of mango? Or is that je ne sais quoi the flavor of oats?

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