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Maple syruping

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Though it’s much more time-consuming than modern tubing and pumps, Julie Wolcott prefers to use a tank drawn by two Belgian draft horses to transport sap to Green Wind Farms in Fairfield, Vt.

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Tease photo

Terroir movement arrives at maple syrup's door

BURLINGTON, Vt. — The next time you take a bite of syrup-soaked pancake, ask yourself: What does that maple syrup really taste like? Do you detect a hint of spiced meat? Perhaps a whisper of mango? Or is that je ne sais quoi the flavor of oats?

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